- This topic has 31 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 1 year, 8 months ago by .
-
Posts
-
-
-
Testing
-
I’m in, but do not need parts cut. I will be doing an alternative build using foam instead of balsa. I am curious to see how it will compare to the balsa builds.
-
I’m in. I always wanted an electro streak when I was a new flyer and it looked so fast. By the time I was a competent pilot they were only available as an ARF that I wasn’t so interested in.
-
Alternative plan question. Are there any tricks to downloading the alternative plan? I can open all of the other links from outerzone, but trying the alternative plan returns a message that “a problem repeatedly occurred “
-
-
-
-
Oh lucky day! Club Swap Meet today. Minutes late & missed out on 2 ultra-stiks. Sold alot of raffle tickets & paid for the Night Timber that we were raffling. Now that other plane, Great Planes Fun-One, is that the plane I want to buy? Told the owner I need to look it up & think a bit about it. Searching on the laptop & bumbled onto this Electro-Streak build. I just bought a used kit on ebay. I did research it before the buy & read good things about it when powered properly. From what I read it is a worthwhile plane to build & great fun to fly, a real Hoot. I could not pass up the short kit. I was about to have a lazer cutter do a short kit for me, No need to now. Thanks guys!
Anyone one have an opinion on the Great Planes Fun-One? I have not found much info. Price certainly is right, looking for a good flying & performing plane like the ultra-stiks, glow powered plane design converted to eflite 32 electric but may need a 45.
I am going to start the planning & sanding for the E-S in Jan23
-
I had a Fun-One and they are good planes. Fairly Stik-ish. It has a nice thick airfoil so it slows down nice. Snappier than Stik, but still has good stall characteristics.
-
-
Thank You for your help. I did get the Fun-One. As always I have find a couple of personal modifications that I want to make before the first flight. Then a double check of the CG & get the throws, sensitivity, & rates programed in my radio. Then I will be ready to go. Appears to me that it would be a great plane if re-designed for electric, shave a couple of ounces off here & there.
-
-
Just a little something to keep everyone motivated.
-
I couldn’t wait and got a plan printed at FedEx and started cutting parts.
-
Just paid for my short kit (I have to be the last one in on this, nothing like waiting till the last minute)
But in my defense I had just discovered the podcast 3 days ago and when I heard talk of an Electro-Streak build I was surprised and excited. I have always wanted to build this model but just never found the time. Haven’t flown RC in at least 6 years but eager to get back in the saddle with this new build.
-
Still researching motors here, I’ve found a few that look they would work well over at RCdude.com, I’ve never purchased from them but I really like how they supply all the performance data on all of their motors. The Cobra 2820/10 looks good for medium fast speed at relatively moderate amps on 3 cells. Anyone else have ideas on what they will be using? I’d like to be in the 450-550 watt range.
-
I don’t have any experience with RCdude.com, but Cobra motors have a good reputation.
The motor I am planning to use is fairly equivalent to the Cobra 2814/16. With a 10×7 prop on 3S I expect about 240watts. eCalc is estimating about 3lbs of thrust and a top speed around 55mph.
-
-
I was wondering what people were going to use for a motor. I am cheap & finally went with one from eBay, bought 2. Thinking 3-4 cell, 9-4 to 10-6 prop, looking for 300-400watt, a 2200mah lipo, esc@ 50a.  We will see what the meter says. The motors I first wanted from online hobby shops were out of stock. I like to fly at 1/2 throttle & apply power when needed to go vertical.
Next problem the brushed motor is 215 gm that GP put in their kit. Our brushless motor are in the 100 gm range. A brushless & a 4s 2200mah lipo is a bit over 215 gm. To balance the battery will need to be close to the motor without extending the nose.
Considering the battery’s new position, replacing the battery quickly & without much fuss, a hatch is needed in the nose. I have been thinking about lengthening the nose 1″ & a top hatch to make replacing the battery easier with my fumble fingers. Also leaving enough structure around the formers & firewall for strength.
Back in the ElectroStreak’s day everyone wished it was an Amazing Performer. By today’s standards she was marginal at best. She had to be light, a excellent motor that is broken in, racing Nicad type batteries, & effective prop. The old nylon Grish were OK for glow but still not as efficient as a good wood prop. I suspect she would have been very popular with todays equipment. GP had an ARF with a plastic Fuselage that did not help with the power to weight problems. Many became hanger Queens after just one or two flights.
Pictures to follow once I learn the ins & outs of modifying the pictures to post.
-
Ok, got my plan and short kit today! Looks very clear and easy to understand, which is good since this will only be the second plane I’ve ever build from plans (built quite a few of my own design from balsa though) I found an E-flight BL15 motor 1260 kv (EFL126015) and thought it looked like it might be a good candidate, pretty powerful I think, and will barely fit, but it will I think. Motor weighs in at 146 grams (5.2 oz.) Recommended ESC is 60 amps with 8×8 propeller, and is good with 3s or 4s. Pretty sure this motor was designed specifically for the E-FLIGHT ‘V900’ which is very roughly around the same size as the Electrostreak, albeit about 10 oz’s lighter! But I imagine it will scoot this bird around just fine.
-
It’s going to be a rocket ship! Dave and you can have a drag race!
-
-
Hi all, build started Downunder on the Electro Streak. Couple of pictures for inspiration.
-
Love the open ribs on Steve-in-Aus’ build!
My short kit arrived today and I’m reviewing the plans and strategizing. Thanks Ron for including the rib stand-offs in the kit as I will be building without a jig. I appreciate the discussion so far on motor sizes and anticipated flying weight with current vs. vintage power systems.
I plan on adding landing gear (tail dragger) so if anyone as has the recommended placement from the original kit plans, it would be great! Thanks!
-
I have tried to upload some photos from the GP Kit plans. If I get them loaded it should be the info you need?
They instruct you to first soak the balsa area where the ply is added with Ca for strength. Ply glued in with CA & area where wire rests against the ply re-enforced with CA. Note one side has a 1/8 aft cut out the other a 1/4. The 1/4 side is filled in with a 1/8 piece of hard wood. Goldberg used this landing gear mounting technique in some of there kits.
Remember that brushed motor was more than 200 gm. You will need the battery forward & perhaps need to add the dreaded lead weight.
-
Thanks, John, for the landing gear info! I’m thinking of flat metal or flat carbon fiber gear rather than bent metal rod, but the plans show the mounting location and overall dimensions. Also nice tail skid detail. Thanks again!
I am settling on the Cobra 2820/10 for a power system. With a 10X6 prop on 3S it produces 350 W; maybe a bit much for my flying, but if nose weight is needed it might as well be in a motor. It will be a tight fit and I think the front two formers will need to be re-cut to make them wider.
This Saturday is our club’s swap meet and one member is selling his stock of balsa, so I hope to get the wood I need and maybe an ESC.
As this discussion moves along, I’ll be interested in what size servos people are using.
-
I am running a similar sized motor and should see similar performance on mine. I have some Hitec HS-65HB servos I am planning to use. But am also planning on using two aileron servos instead of a single one as shown on the plan.
-
-
Good news everyone! Even if you are a ham fisted builder, you will probably have no problem matching the original recommended weight for the E-Streak!
I got mine weighed, and even with all the changes I made without regards to weight, I am only 1 oz over the recommended max weight of 42 ounces. The list of changes is as such: fuselage sides 1/8 instead of 3/32, bottom sheeting 3/32 instead of 1/16, fully sheeted and fiber glassed wing, 1/8 lite ply wing tip plates, twin aileron servos instead of just one, 1/4 ply rear wing hold down plate with two 10-32 wing bolts, solid horizontal stabilizer with carbon spar, solid elevator, tri stock bracing under horizontal stab, 4cell power system with 80 amp esc.
Doing some math, power draw is 56 amps with an output of 828 watts. That equals 308 watts/pound! 120-180 watts/pound is recommended for serious aerobatics and 3D, so YEE-HAA!!
-
Thanks for letting me join in….recently found the podcast and have been enjoying the knowledge and entertainment. Â I see on some posts that there is a short kit available with plan? Â Where can these short kits/plans be purchased and what is the cost……starting a little late but will catch up?
Looking forward to this build as it will be my first electric.
Thank you,
Scott
-
-
Two successful maidens today!
Iwas able to maiden the E-Streak today. Never been so pleased, and disappointed at the same time The flight went beautifully, with almost no trim needed. The aircraft performed exceptionally well, and the landing was a non event. However, the speed was a real let down. It is not slow, but it is also nowhere near as fast as I expected.
A thought to anyone setting up the radio, you might consider setting the plane up with flaperons. Mine really liked a few degrees of flap for landing.
And build the tail light, Tom and I both had to add weight to the nose to get them to balance.
-
Clearing a corner of my basement and setting up a build table took longer than expected, but that’s done and I’m moving forward on my ElectroStreak. I started with the fuselage as I figured that would be the most challenging due to modifications needed for the motor and battery tray. I found 3/32″ balsa sheets in a box of balsa I inherited from a neighbor when I was a teenager 50+ years ago and obtained other balsa stock from a friend and one of our hobby shops.
I lined the front half of the fuselage sides with 1/64 plywood instead of using the 1/16 balsa doubler under the wing. That resulted in stiffer sides that bowed out under the wing when pulled over the the formers. I added an additional former under the wing to pull the sides in. Yeah, more weight.
The motor I chose is a Cobra 2810/10 and widened the fuselage 1/4″ to accommodate it. It shoehorns in with about 1/8″ to spare on the sides. I did a static test on the motor using a 10X6 Master Airscrew prop and after peaking at 38A, 412W for a short time, settled down to 35A, 360W at 100% throttle; pretty darn close to Inno8tive Design’s published data (which uses ACP props).
I plan to leave the fuselage in front of the wing “boxy” to better accommodate the motor, ESC and battery.
Even though it is a straight-forward sports plane fuselage, it has taken me time for me to build because 1) I’m rusty, and, 2) the need to think two or three steps ahead to make sure the placement of something will fit into the overall design. I’m gaining new appreciation for model airplane designers! I’m installing landing gear that adds to the complexity.
I have two Hitech HS-81 servos for the rudder and elevator and two Hitech HS-65 servos for the wing-mounted aileron servos. The HS-65 are the first servos I paid more than $5 for . . . everything else has been used or no-name brands.
Pictures below.
-
Pictures of the power end of things before I close up the front of the fuselage. The battery tray screws in, so technically the motor and ESC can be serviced in the future, but it might be a Houdini magic act to fit it all in nicely so I am installing now and building around them. I wrapped the motor with painter’s tape to protect from balsa dust from sanding.
Also shown is the landing gear. The battery access latch will cover the area forward from the landing gear. This will provide access to the rear of the motor so it can be held secure for propeller changes. I’m thinking I will use electrician tape as securing strap.
My main concern is making a fatal layout mistake that will prevent needed adjustments or repairs in the future. My former dairy farmer neighbors always said they did a job twice; once to learn how to do it and the second time to do it right. This is my first time building an ElectroStreak!
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.